What can you spot?? Here was another one from the archives. This was a large commission I did for a client a while ago. She gave me special items and themes to use in the design. It was a pleasure working with the client and coming I’m up with a painting that fit her desires and expectations. It was large probably 32x50 I can’t remember. See how many little throw ins she wanted me to include. .
From the archives. This was called ‘Crock Point’ 18x24 (sold) #acryliconcanvas . I used to be into these black lines abstract surf paintings. I used to enjoy hiding animals in my works. Now I mostly do eyes and human forms. But occasionally I’ll put animals in. .
What’s up you guys, the waves are closing out here but it’s really big, definitely good up north. 3.0 foot at 16 seconds coming in from the SSW. Water temp is 65 degrees getting warmer.
QUESTION OF THE DAY: What is your favorite plant? My favorite plant has to be bamboo, ever since I saw a bamboo forest, I’ve always found it to be super cool. Anyways I’ll see you guys tomorrow and yeah I hope you guys have a great day.
8 9615 hours ago
Surf photography has been a secret fascination of mine; a hobby that's always wanted to be so much more. In fact, surfing was one of the few sparks that lit a fire under me to turn photography into a full-blown obsession. Though I made a name for myself with landscapes and photojournalism, surfing was always there in the background.
2014 changed the game for me. After being exposed to a higher caliber of surfing at Ocean Beach in San Francisco and then again a few months later at Steamer Lane in Santa Cruz, I knew I had it in me to do something more with this aspect of photography. That year I purchased a 70-300mm lens for my DSLR and though I was going to use it as a multi-purpose lens, its primary focus would be surfing.
However, life had something different in store for me.
In May of this year, I have made several outings in an attempt to photograph local surfers. Plans fell through, conditions weren't right and then when things really came together, a late season storm dumped a lot of rain on the area. Things just didn't sync.
On this day, I kept an eye on the weather and the marine forecast. Conditions were deteriorating, however, a brief window looked like it would open up for me. So when four o'clock rolled around, I shut the office down and headed to the coast.
I literally on spent half an hour at a local sandbar, but was stoked that there were people in the water and conditions were enough to truly test my skill and the lens. Suffice to say, I was happy with the outcome.
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The only constant is change.
First wave of the session before the sun went out. My friend and photographer @fotografo_surfer_barra took the sequence, here a resume of it.
Hair dry, first wave paddling out and score, no one around the firsts out. Happen during one of the last trips with @ottobarrel and Rick.
Surfing my 5.8 hoey donjohnston @norchoadvisery
On a truster setup with future fins and that epoxy light foam with carbon fiber rails.
16 sec on a 208 swell . If you know you know.
Local knowledge will save you time and the experience you will get will be backed up with our experience in the area. #surftours#mexicotravel#surfing#surftrips#barrels#perfectwaves
4/4 final throw back from the archives of the ‘sneak onto private land to surf’ series. I’ve camped a lot on the California coast between here and San Fran. There’s a lot of open spaces and many of them have fences. Take a chance or not is up to you. Good luck. This was 24x32 (sold) .
You know that fancy phrase, "endocannabinoid system," (ECS) we keep blabbering about? Well we want to chat about it a little more today because of how important it is. Some scientists actually believe it's one of the most important systems that exist! Why?
One of its main jobs is to maintain homeostasis in the body.
🧐 You're probably thinking, "oh great guys, another big word that doesn't mean anything to me."
🌊Don't worry, we'll break it down:
Homeostasis is basically the ability to keep a balanced bodily state that functions well despite outside conditions. All living things, including people, animals and plants, rely on this internal balance to maintain good health and wellness.
Homeostasis plays a big role in the body’s ability to function properly and also influences our nervous, immune, digestive, respiratory, reproductive and urinary systems.
The ECS is seen as a “master regulator” within your body. Like we've said before, it’s responsible for regulating several different bodily processes.
Research shows the the ECS can influence:
• Immune response
• Motor control
• Bone health
• Muscle development
• Reproductive function
• Cardiovascular function
• Skin health
• Nerve function
It’s believed that using the cannabinoids found in cannabis (namely hemp-derived CBD) could help support the function of the ECS. This could mean improved homeostasis and levels of health. While more research is needed, one thing is for sure: the ECS plays a huge role in keeping us happy and healthy.
💥 We recommend taking CBD daily in order to maintain that homeostasis so you can stay stoked and swell.
2 394 June, 2020
A distant dream.
25 2514 June, 2020
What’s up you guys check out these fun waves rolling in. Its 8AM I accidentally said it was 9 but it’s 8. It’s 2-3 foot and cleaner than yesterday. Water temp is 65 degrees. The swell is picking up currently and it is definitely looking fun. Paddling out.
QUESTION OF THE DAY: What is your favorite way to eat pasta? My favorite way to eat pasta is probably the way my dad makes clams and Linguine. It is really lemony and delicious. So so good. Comment below yours, and I’ll see you guys tomorrow 🤙🏽
Another ‘forbidden’ coast painting from the archives. This was made after a return trip from up north as they say in SoCal. This was somewhere up the central coast. More barbed wire, more limited access. More sketchy. More mysterious. More fun. This was 24x48 #acrylicpainting on canvas. .
A few months ago I had half a dozen fins stolen from my car. As of late I’ve been on a weekly routine of searching on Craigslist for some fins to replenish what was stolen.
I found a good listing in Ventura and I go to the address to check it out. Young lady is there waiting for me with the fin. Upon inspection, I agreed that it was a fair price. “Do you have Venmo” I said, she says yes. “What is it?” I followed up with, she proceeds to tell me as I punch in the letters of her Venmo and before I complete it I realize, and I said, “holy shit, I think I follow you on Instagram, aren’t you the photographer?!!”
She just happens to be a kick-ass professional photographer from Hawaii that is just coming through Ventura for a few months.
This is one of her pics. You will be seeing much more of her work in the near future!
Gracias Sarah for your fin!
Al Merrick Rocket Wide em duas construções distintas, em PU e EPS Spine-Tek, tecnologia exclusiva da @cisurfboards. .
Este modelo foi pensado para oferecer altos níveis de diversão e desempenho em ondas pequenas e fracas. .
A Rocket Wide apresenta uma rabeta mais larga para atravessar as seções flat das ondas e um bico mais largo para ganhar poder e velocidade nas remadas. Então, não deixe que os dias de mar mais calmos te derrubem, porque o Rocket Wide está pronta para decolar.
Fun 2-3 foot surf, it’s all about the lefts. Tides on its way up and it peaks at 8:37am at 4.0feet. Some fun ones are rolling in. Paddling out.
QUESTION OF THE DAY: Do you have a dog? If so what’s its name and what does it look like? I absolutely love dogs but unfortunately I don’t have one of my own because my landlord restricts them ): If you have one comment below.
23 973 June, 2020
The north coast of California is filled with imperfections. Reefs have potential to create really good waves, but nine times out of ten, irregularities only create frustration.
Case in point, this place. It has so much potential. When the swell is large, lines build as they enter the bay and then bend into the direction of this patch of reef. In a perfect world, those lines would peak and break in an a-frame; with long perfect rights and shorter, punchy lefts. In a perfect world, it would be flawless.
The reality is that there are deeper pockets in the ocean floor between the reef of the bay and this spot. Lines build, bend and back off a bit before feeling out this reef. Sure, it peaks, but most of the time I've seen it break, it's a fat, mushy mound of shit.
Apparently though this spot has been surfed since the 1950s and when the moon and stars align, I have heard there is a world class left that showtimes shows. In 25 years though, I personally have never seen it. In recent winters, I've had a friend show me his own personal Loch Ness Monster.
On this day, as the tide was dropping, on occasion a set would roll in that give me some semblance of hope that this spot is more than just a novelty.
More often than not, fat, mushy bastards barfed before me.
‘Would you do it?’ From the archives. Somewhere up on the central #californiacoast you’ll find this spot. If you’re willing to cross the bar wire fence and make a mad dash across this field to avoid the bulls you can score some good to mediocre waves. Oh, also watch out for the rancher. This is #acrylicpainting on canvas 24x32. I painted this back in the early 2000’s sometime. I really tried to give it a ominous feeling yet showing the beauty and reward at the end. .
Located between the hills and the ocean, an hour north of Los Angeles, along the iconic California Highway 1, Ventura is a typical California coastal town teeming with palm trees and surfers